Monday, September 01, 2014
Sunday, August 31, 2014
Access to skilled craftsmen is an elementary need, especially when you are working around vintage royalty. Soumitra holds this key to the best of his use with jamdani, khadi, silks and cottons. The designer for his label ‘Marg’ presented his latest collection, titled ‘Woven Royalty’, with a predominantly beige colour story with hints of pink and gold. Aimed at the modern Indian woman Soumitra offers silhouettes that range from ‘A’ line, knee, and ankle length for bandhgalas, tops and jackets. Regal sarees covered with luxurious resham borders, bandhgalas with parallel pants, capris with kurtas sporting tonal embroidery, flared mini kurti and a reversible waistcoat, all ideal for semi-formal wear. Moving towards more intense embellishments, Soumitra had silk motifs that cascaded down the shoulders to the waist in garments teamed with wide flared pants. Mirror work gradually crept in for a long sleeved kurta and the final peach lehenga, choli and dupatta closed the show. For the women who long for timeless fabrics with history and heritage attached to them, Soumitra Mondal’s collection ‘Woven Royalty’ had plenty of it.
Krishna Mehta Winter Festive 2014 Fashion has its own fascinating way of presenting sartorial excellence by holding on to heritage techniques without compromising on seasoned modernity. And sometimes, age-old traditions are all you require to define this uniqueness. In Krishna Mehta’s festive collection, Indian Handlooms from Benaras, Maheshwar, Bhagalpur and Manipur have been innovated to emphasise the functionality and versatility of Indian crafts. She divides the line into four distinct categories based on their colour stories – indigo, orange, white and shocking pink. Amidst colour, print and fabric combinations, surface detailing in the form of tonal embroidery evoke the festive, celebratory mood of the line. Krishna brings out the comfort factor in festive wear through relaxed silhouettes like kurtas, tunics, angarakha gowns, mul covers with extended sleeves, flared pants and palazzos. While sarees with kedia-style blouses add a rustic touch, embellished lehengas and maxis introduce the shimmer factor to the otherwise minimal approach. Each season, Krishna Mehta features textiles from different regions of the country to create awareness and facilitate marketing opportunities for Indian Handloom.
Modern fantasy remains Amit’s forte this season as well, with an eccentric crossover of androgyny and feminity. What started as an overwhelming yet attractive fashion signature with his Autumn-Winter line referred to as ‘Metallics and Magic’, collected applaud for its out of the box approach. Few seasons forward, his Winter-Festive collection in tribal influences such as striped tattoos and structured jewelry on his signature ribbed metallic gowns are reigniting the luminous magic. Deep metallic hues covered in washed matt silks, crêpe de chine, duchess satin and while tulle together create a strong whimsical story on the runway. Bold structured silhouettes, crafted to fit the body are some distinct features one can always find in Amit’s clothes. The goal of making beautiful things or making things look beautiful the way we see it, finds perfect expression in his work. A final lesson from his line: Sticking to your signature style season after season may not signal a mundane outlook but a closet full of possibilities. And with the overload of unsung trends season-in, season-out, it might help to vouch for your signature instincts, as does Amit.